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Fashion, Lifestyle, Style, Uncategorized

What MATTERS most: Interviewing Renyung Ho

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Over the past few years, many companies selling sustainably made clothing have sprung up all across the world, inspired by many different traditions and histories. While each of them promise apparel made ethically, not all of them go one step further and try to change people’s entire opinions and beliefs about sustainability in the textile industry.

MATTER is one of those companies taking that next step. Founded with the threefold mission “to foster designer-artisan collaborations, inspire customers to value provenance and process, and pioneer industry change and sustainability for rural textile communities,” the apparel maker works to raise awareness through community about the long-term benefits of sustainable craftsmanship over today’s current business models, through things like its online journal and community hashtag. It also delivers when it comes to its products as well, drawing inspiration from rural artisans and utilizing truly local crafting techniques. I reached out to co-founder Renyung Ho to discuss MATTER’s practices, its artisan network, and its community-building practices.

Q: What originally inspired you to get into the textile space?

Renyung Ho: Whenever and wherever I’ve travelled, I’ve always loved going to textile markets and seeing the local fabrics. There’s so much culture and history in that. My academic background is in sociology and I did my thesis on social entrepreneurship, so I’ve always been interested in cultural stories in that sense.

In the photo: MATTER dhoti pants Photo credit: MATTER

Q: One of the aspects of MATTER’s mission is to “pioneer industry change and sustainability for rural textile communities”, how has MATTER gone about doing that?

RH: There have been a couple of ways, especially these three:

Minimal waste design: Using a method that reduces textile waste in the design to pattern cutting process, our production partners collect the leftover fabrics from every order. The idea, beyond minimizing waste, is to give new life to typically rejected fabrics and use them as a basis of collaboration with likeminded brands and designers who want to spread the importance of reducing waste.

Hybrid production: Committed to a hybrid production process, we work to bridge the gap between traditional, rural artisanship and modern, urban markets and design principles. We incorporate elements of digital and mechanical processes where it is more efficient, and handmade processes when we see that they have immeasurable human value.

Season-less styles: Grounded in a philosophy of seasonless styles and seasonal fabrics, every piece is created with the intention to carry you through the years to come. We’ve designed our pants with adjustable closures for waist or hip wearing – no zips; only buttons, wraps and fabric belts. Meaning, they were made to adjust to your body as it changes and grows.

We believe that for rural craftsmanship to thrive, we need to build a network that creates access to the market, providing products that, through good design, stand on their own two feet. Our bigger dream is to mainstream textile artisanship, connecting artisans and designers to become a collective that showcases the results of those collaborations.

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In the photo: A model sporting MATTER products Photo credit: MATTER

Q: MATTER relies on native and traditional artisans, how do you find and connect with the people who produce MATTER’s products?

RH: Before MATTER, my fiancé and I embarked on an adventure fundraising road trip down the western coast of India. We drove 3000km over 2 weeks on a three-wheeler auto-rickshaw, and raised funds for 4 charities in India dealing with basic needs (water, education, play, nature). In that time, I met many people with whom I continue to work with today, and that was the catalyst that made me realize that if there was any time to start something, it was now.

Related articles: “KASI MARTIN: SELF-EDUCATED FASHION ACTIVIST” by Leo Cammish

Q: In addition to making textiles, MATTER also hosts a journal that discusses craftsmanship, sustainability, and other topics. How and why was that started?

RH: We strive for the same sense of resonance and connection. Beyond our presence as a textile-focused brand, we want to cultivate a sense of community with our #MATTERtribe. The journal is a platform for us to ground ourselves on the values we began with: stories, craft, and collaboration.

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In the photo: MATTER trousers Photo credit: MATTER

Q: What does the future of MATTER look like in your eyes?

RH: The future of MATTER is to be in many more fabric-intensive geographies in Asia like Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, China, and Japan. I would love to see that diversity come through in our products. There will be a definite global presence in our retail platform.

EDITORS NOTE: The opinions expressed here by Impakter.com columnists are their own, not those of Impakter.com

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About the Author /

Mohamad Akef is an Impakter columnist and fan of Egyptian football. When he’s not watching a match he enjoys creative writing and outdoor hiking, and is currently studying for his MBA at the Haas School of Business at the University of California, Berkeley

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Food, Impact, Uncategorized

The food industry is coming under increasing scrutiny for its environmental impact, from greenhouse gas emissions, to excessive and detrimental land and water usage, to chemical pollution. Given the challenge of feeding a growing world population whilst simultaneously needing to drastically reduce greenhouse gas emissions and other environmental impacts, clearly we need to look at alternatives to “dinner as usual”. The contribution of livestock to global greenhouse emissions is estimated at between 14.5 – 18%. Fortunately, there are companies who are tackling this challenge head on and looking at how emissions from food production can be reduced. With consumer interest increasing in alternatives to meat and other protein sources, we’ve spoken to the founders of three companies. From the seemingly futuristic to the rediscovery of superfood trees, each company tackles this new drive in consumer interest in different ways.

Solar Foods, Finland

Dr Pasi Vainnika is the CEO and co-founder of Solar Foods. The slogan of the company is “Food out of thin air”. Pasi was formerly in charge of the single largest renewable energy program in Finland. However, when he found out that 20-25% of the emissions come from food, he realized that emissions from this sector needed to be addressed, as well as those in the energy sector. But with the growth in affordable and renewable energy – particularly solar energy– it led him and his team to question the possibility of producing food solely from energy, carbon dioxide, and water. It turns out, the answer is yes. Solein is a unique single cell protein. It is produced using a fully natural fermentation process like that of the production of yeast or lactic acid bacteria. The powder, which is produced from the process, is 50% protein, 5-10% fat and 20-25% carbohydrate. Most likely, the first product to reach the consumer market will be a replacement in existing plant-based foods. For example, using Solein in shakes or as an alternative to dairy in milks, yogurts, and even in breads and pasta. In the future, a lasagna could include the protein in all aspects of the recipe: the sauce, in the pasta sheets, and in the filling. Further into the future, there is also the possibility that it could be used as the basis for cultured meat production.
In the Photo: Solein Can be used in smoothies as a protein alternative. Photo Credit: Shawn Fields - Unsplash
To produce a kilo of the protein powder takes 10 liters of water in comparison to the 2500 liters of water for a kilo of soy or 15,500 liters for a kilo of beef. Electricity is the main raw material, and the plan is to source this from renewable energy sources. Additionally, Solein binds carbon dioxide rather than emitting it, easing pressure on land use. The product is currently going through regulatory checks and testing at the moment, with a plan to launch in 2021. NASA and the Soviet Union space programs had started to investigate in similar protein production for their expeditions in the past, but Solar Foods has brought it down to earth.

Higher Steaks, United Kingdom

Whilst some people are switching to plant-based diets and others have reduced their meat consumption, some others still want to keep meat in their diets but are looking for more environmentally friendly options. This is where lab-based meat comes in. Benjamina Bollag, CEO and co-founder of Higher Steaks, a UK-based company, believes that it is important to provide alternatives to meat with a lower carbon footprint, but that taste as close as possible to the real thing. She believes that the change required in human behavior to cut emissions will not happen fast enough otherwise. This approach is confirmed by research they have conducted. 52% of respondents confirmed that they would switch from conventional meat to the Higher Steaks alternative, with 21% saying they would prefer a plant-based diet. There are different ways of producing lab-based meat. The process that Higher Steaks is developing is based on pluripotent stem cells, which are taken from a small skin patch or blood sample. The meat that is grown is then shaped into products. Currently, Higher Steaks is working primarily on pork products.
In Photo: Higher Steaks will eventually release pork as its first lab-cultured meat. Photo Credit: Yvonne Lee Harijanto - Unsplash
The company has yet to conduct a lifecycle assessment of the lab-grown meat, but given the high levels of environmental impact from meat production, it should be safe to say that Higher Steaks products will be more sustainable. In addition, as Benjamina explains, other advantages include the avoidance of antibiotic use, resulting in a product which is better for the consumer as well. The level of fat can also be adjusted, depending on consumer preference. The company is working to have the first products in shops within 3-5 years.

Barukas, Brazil

Barukas proves that you don’t always to have to look to the future for more sustainable food sources. Sometimes it is about rediscovering and making available a food source which has been around for a long time to a wider audience. The baruzeiro tree, native to Brazil, has been a long-time source of nutrition for people living in the Cerrado, the vast savannah at the heart of Brazil. The tree produces a fruit, which contains the baru nut. It was the nutritional profile of the baru nut that initially attracted Seth Tuckerman, who had formerly been the COO of Beachbody, a fitness business. The nuts are high in protein, fiber, minerals, and are lower in fat than typical nuts. The taste is often described as a cross between peanuts and almonds. In fact, Tuckerman’s immediate thought on tasting them was “low calorie almonds”. Tuckerman’s passion is not only about the positive health benefits, but also about the trees and the mutual benefits for the communities where they grew.
In Photo: Baruzeiro tree. Photo Credit: Barukas
Tuckerman became a co-founder of Barukas Incorporated. They are on a mission to plant 20 million baruzeiro trees – as a start. The trees need little water and – as native trees – they are already ideally suited to the Cerrado conditions. First, Barukas must prove that there is a market for the fruit of the existing trees. As such, the company is encouraging those living in the Cerrado to collect the nuts by guaranteeing to buy them, then creating customer demand for the nuts. Collecting the fruit from existing trees helps to preserve them from being cleared for intensive and invasive agricultural methods such as soy plantations. Likewise, planting new trees helps to reverse the deforestation of Cerrado. A report by the Climate Observatory estimated that the destruction of surface vegetation in the Cerrado released 248 million tons of greenhouse gas emissions in 2016. This is roughly two-and-half times the annual tailpipe emissions from all cars in Brazil.
In Photo: Closer look at the baruzeiro tree. Photo Credit: Barukas.
From talking with these three pioneers, it is now clearer than ever that we need multiple solutions to address how to sustainably feed a growing population. We need to cut the carbon emissions and reduce other environmental impacts such as water and land use associated with food production. Some of these solutions are a little way off in the future, but others are available now. We are what we eat, but our choices will increasingly determine what kind of future we will live in as well.   EDITOR’S NOTE: The opinions expressed here by Impakter.com columnists are their own, not those of Impakter.com.
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