The fashion industry is one of the world’s largest polluters, accounting for about 2%-8% of global greenhouse gas emissions. This is because fast fashion relies heavily on energy-intensive production and supply chains, materials derived from fossil fuels, and a model that drives overconsumption and waste. In 2023, approximately 2.5-5 billion surplus garments were produced, with most ending up in landfills or incinerators. . The fast fashion industry is also responsible for various social injustices, including labour abuses, across different countries.
In response, second-hand clothing is emerging as a more sustainable alternative. As sourcing materials and clothing production generate the most pollution, buying secondhand clothing avoids these processes altogether. It also gives clothes new life instead of them going to landfills and contributing to pollution.
Other, non-environmental perks of secondhand clothing include their affordability and uniqueness. From higher-end items to one-of-a-kind pieces, secondhand shopping lets people find things that match their personal tastes for good prices.
According to a recent survey, secondhand items now account for 28% of people’s existing wardrobe, including approximately 30% for clothing and 40% for handbags. Data also suggests that the secondhand fashion and luxury market is growing three times faster than the firsthand market, with the global resale market projected to hit up to $360B by 2030, up from $210B – $220B from today.
However, a recent study suggests that the growth in secondhand consumption is starting to mimic the patterns of primary consumption, raising the question: how sustainable is second-hand clothing really?
Second‑Hand’s Hidden Costs
Despite its reputation as the more sustainable shopping choice, there is limited empirical evidence that it curbs fast fashion demand. Major resale platforms have been under scrutiny for their capacity to reinforce fast fashion dynamics, especially if their revenue depends on the disposal of wearable clothing, driven by either trend fatigue or space constraints.
A significant amount of surplus garments produced by the fast fashion industry ends up in global secondhand markets through donation streams. Large quantities of clothing are exported to other developing nations, oversaturating their local markets and affecting domestic production. These export processes further exacerbate the climate crisis due to their large emission volumes.
Why “Ethical” Shopping Isn’t Enough
Furthermore, studies show positive correlations between consumers’ spending in primary and secondhand markets, indicating that consumers’ increased clothing donation practices occur alongside their continuous acquisition of clothing. Disposal behaviours appear to be motivated by the desire for novelty and keeping up with trends, as most people reported making donations to either make room for new purchases. This signals that secondhand consumption adds to primary consumption instead of replacing it.
The perceived ethics of secondhand consumption may lead to higher consumption rates by alleviating guilt and justifying additional purchases. Consumers’ behaviours may then offset the environmental benefits obtained through the secondhand market.
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Rethinking Fashion: From Consumers to Industry
This is a significant cause for concern, especially with the projected growth of the secondhand market alongside the steady rise of the primary market. Consumers can do their part by making more mindful choices. Apart from simply wearing existing clothes in their wardrobe, mixing and matching their clothing in different combinations, or upcycling worn-out pieces can add a fresh twist to their usual rotation.
Though easier said than done, people should also refrain from making impulsive purchases that will be thrown out of their closets after one or two wears when a new trend arises. Instead, consumers should aim to invest in timeless, good quality secondhand pieces that they can see themselves wearing frequently.
Beyond Individual Choices
Unfortunately, there are gaps between consumers’ intentions and their actions, and their expressed sustainability concerns do not translate into their consumption choices. This underscores the limitations of consumer-driven solutions to tackle the challenges posed by the fashion industry.
Research has emphasised the need to tackle the root cause of overconsumption, starting from within the fashion industry. There is an urgent need to implement policies and regulations that target the systemic challenges by increasing transparency and accountability.
Examples of such policies include the required disclosure of sustainability metrics, promoting certification systems to improve accountability, and clarifying the environmental impact of donation-based organisations. These may help to facilitate positive changes in the market, moving in a more sustainable direction.
Style Without Sacrifice
At the end of the day, the climate crisis is a global concern, and every person matters. While the secondhand market has the potential to mitigate the issues posed by the fast fashion industry, industries and consumers must make a collective effort to prioritise more sustainable long-term goals over fleeting trends for a greener, stylish future.
Editor’s Note: The opinions expressed here by the authors are their own, not those of Impakter.com — In the Featured Photo: Clothes hanging on rack in vintage store. Featured Photo Credit: Francois Le Nguyen
